Chemical peeling is a procedure aimed at exfoliating the superficial or deeper layers of the epidermis using chemical agents. The therapeutic goal is to improve the appearance of the skin by treating various skin issues, such as pigmentation irregularities, wrinkles, acne, and scars.
Types of chemical peels used according to the specific indications and results requested by the client:
Superficial Peel (epidermal exfoliation):
- Indications: Light hyperpigmentation, mild acne, photoaging.
- Active agents: Glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid.
- Mechanism of action: The chosen acid works by exfoliating the superficial layers of the epidermis, thereby promoting cell turnover without penetrating beyond the stratum corneum.
- Procedure duration: About 20-30 minutes.
- Recovery time: Minimal, with redness possibly lasting from a few hours to a few days.
Medium Peel (moderate dermal exfoliation):
- Indications: Moderate acne scars, moderate wrinkles, pronounced pigmentation irregularities.
- Active agents: Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) at varying concentrations.
- Mechanism of action: Trichloroacetic acid penetrates into the superficial dermis, causing deeper desquamation and stimulating collagen production.
- Procedure duration: 30 to 60 minutes.
- Recovery time: 7 to 10 days, with scabs and significant peeling during the healing phase.
Deep Peel (deep dermal exfoliation):
- Indications: Deep wrinkles, severe photoaging, significant atrophic scars.
- Active agents: Phenol (in concentrated solution) or a combination of phenol and crotonic acid.
- Mechanism of action: Phenol penetrates deeply into the dermis, causing severe exfoliation and inducing skin remodeling.
- Procedure duration: 60 to 90 minutes.
- Recovery time: About 2 to 3 weeks, with strict post-operative follow-up due to the depth of the procedure.
Therapeutic effects:
- Improvement of skin texture: Stimulation of collagen and elastin production, which can reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness.
- Reduction of pigmentation spots: Reduction of sunspots, melasma, and other dyschromias through the exfoliation of pigmented cells.
- Acne treatment: Chemical peeling reduces comedones, inflammatory lesions, and acne scars, particularly atrophic scars.
Possible side effects and complications:
- Erythema and edema: Redness and swelling are common immediately after a medium or deep peel.
- Hyperpigmentation (dark spots): Risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in patients with darker skin or in cases of poor post-peel management.
- Hypopigmentation: In rare cases, excessive skin lightening may occur, especially after a deep peel.
- Infections: Risk of bacterial or viral infection (herpes simplex), particularly if the skin is exposed to pathogens during the healing phase.
- Scarring: Although rare, scars may form if there is an excessive skin reaction or poor post-treatment care.
- Excessive dryness and peeling: Excessively dry skin and marked peeling may occur, particularly after a medium or deep peel.
Contraindications for chemical peeling:
- Sensitive or irritated skin: Very sensitive skin or skin with acute inflammations (eczema, psoriasis) is not suitable for chemical peeling.
- Dark skin (phototype V and VI): Clients with darker skin may have an increased risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and should undergo a thorough evaluation before the procedure.
- History of keloid scars: People prone to forming keloid scars may not be ideal candidates for peels, especially deep peels.
- Active skin infections: Any active infection (herpes, impetigo, etc.) contraindicates the performance of a chemical peel.
- Isotretinoin treatment: Patients who have taken isotretinoin (Accutane) in the last six months should avoid chemical peels, as the treatment makes the skin more fragile and increases the risk of complications.
Post-treatment at-home care:
- Strict sun protection: Daily application of broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 50+) is essential to avoid hyperpigmentation and protect the skin, especially after a chemical peel.
- Skin hydration: Use a gentle, non-comedogenic moisturizer to maintain skin hydration, reduce dryness, and promote healing.
- Avoid sun exposure: Avoid direct sun exposure for at least 4 to 6 weeks after treatment. UV exposure can cause scarring, hyperpigmentation, or hypopigmentation.
- Do not scratch or peel the skin: It is essential not to pull at scabs or scratch the skin during the peeling phase to prevent scarring or infection.
- Gentle cleansing: Use a mild cleanser without alcohol or fragrance to avoid irritating the treated skin.
- Avoid irritating products: Do not use products containing retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), or abrasive products until the skin has fully healed.
- Medical follow-up: A follow-up with the professional who performed the peel is recommended to assess the healing process and address any potential complications quickly.
In summary, chemical peeling is an effective procedure for treating many skin issues, but it requires rigorous care both during and after the treatment to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of complications. It is essential to consult a qualified professional to evaluate if this treatment is suitable for your skin and to follow the post-treatment recommendations closely.